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1967 mustang for sale

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Q: 1967 mustang for sale pic inside?
do you think this car is worth what they asking for? i found it on craigslist…i never use that site but since i am looking for an old muscle mustang..i decided to take a look and found this 1967 mustang which is not so far away from my area but i need more opinions on this car. http://mcallen.en.craigslist.org/cto/1611700593.html

A: it is over priced, especially since it doesn’t have many original features, such as the exhaust which you can plainly see. so for a face value its overprice by a good 7k. but if you don’t care about original features it is nice, but still overpriced.

Q: How much would it cost to repaint a 1967 Mustang?
I was looking at an 8 Cylinder 1967 Mustang for sale recently. It’s got one of those black vinyl tops (which looks fine). Right now it’s got the old yellow paint job which I’d need to strip and I’ll like to get red.
Maybe like this:

http://www.musclecarsociety.com/files/imagecache/muscle-cars/submitted/1967_mustang01_ec02_im.jpg

A: it varies and what type or kind of shop your planning on taking it too and what kind of quality you want done cheap or show car look.

Q: 1967 mustang for sale?
do you think 1967 Mustang Fairly new paint job, nice interior, engine is a 351 stroking a 408, 4.11 rear end, new mickey thompson drag tires, new alluminun weld racing rims, 400 miles on new engine, that “suppostly” never been ran on the track for $2,500 is good deal?
http://mcallen.en.craigslist.org/cto/1611700593.html
yeah, this is close to my area where i live :) but i just wanted to make sure what you all think about this 1967 mustang..is it worth what they asking for? :o
walter, thats exactly what i was thinking “too good to be true”
in the additional details u can actually see the pics of the car along with price -.- so u can see it for yourself ^^

A: Sounds like someone left off the final zero.

Q: 1967 Mustang for sale..pic inside?
do you think this mustang is worth what they asking for? this person selling this car lives close by my area..but i wanted more opinions on this car and what you think. I found it on craigslist…

http://mcallen.en.craigslist.org/cto/1611700593.html

A: It looks like it has a lot of money invested in it, he’s probably loosing money on it, but that’s up to you to go check it out and see if you want to spend that kind of money on a notch.. that’s the trouble with them, you can put more into them than they will ever be worth..

You might be able to find a decent fastback for that kind of money..

Q: any one have a 1967-1968 fastback mustang for sale?

A: www.ebay.com 27 cars from 1200 to 100,000

Q: 1967 Ford Mustang coupe on sale for $6000?
Is $6000 a good value for a 1967 Ford Mustang coupe? It has a 289 2 barrel V8, automatic tranny, power steering/brakes, it runs/drives great, body/interior are in good condition and it has flowmasters and new exhaust.

A: My first question as always is about rust. On a 67, check the floors under the carpet and under the car for rust. Also check under the carpet by the passengers feet, if it ever had a leaky heater core then some amount of rust will be there on the floor. Check out the trunk area (under the car and in the trunk) look at the METAL, if there is carpet in the trunk or a trunk mat, pull it up and look underneath. Check the frame rails for rust. Open both of the doors and look at the under side of the doors (where water would drain out) and see if there is any rust. The holes in the bottom of the doors often get clogged up with dirt/leaves, etc and do not allow the water to drain out causing the bottom of the doors to rust. The #1 area you want to check for rust is the cowl (the vented area between the windshield and the hood). Vintage mustangs were not properly protected in the cowl area. If the cowl is rusty it is a huge pain to replace the cowl. If you look at the car you can see all of the spot welds that would have to be drilled out to access the cowl, not fun. The easiest way to check if the cowl is leaky is to pour a cup of water into the cowl (between the windshield and the hood). Pour a cup on the drivers side of the cowl and see where it drains out. If the cowl is not rusted out then the water will drain out inside the fender and onto the ground. If the cowl is rusted the water will leak onto the interior floor boards (where your feet would sit if you were driving). Then pour a cup down the passenger side and check the same.

How is the paint? Be cautious if it is a “new” paint job. New paint jobs are often hiding a lot. Look closely all around the car for little bubbles in the paint (even if there is just one or two). Bubbles in the paint can mean that there is rust under that paint.

Pull the dipstick and see how the oil looks. Any seller with half a brain will have put fresh oil in it but check to make sure. Do the same with the tranny fluid. Tell the seller that you would like to take off a valve cover to see how it looks inside. Look to see if there is a lot of sludge built up on the rocker arms, push rods, and on the head itself. Take a peek at the coolant as well.

Does it have 4 wheel drum brakes? Drive at 40 or so and press the brakes like you are coming to a normal stop. While you are pressing the brakes, take your hands off the wheel. Keep your hands right next to the wheel but don’t touch it while you are stopping. Does the car pull to one side while you are stopping?

If the car is a numbers matching (original engine, tranny, rear end) 67 coupe that runs good all around, has good interior, etc and all of the above things check out then I would personally pay maybe $5000 for it. If you know what you are shopping for, you can get a lot for $6000.

Q: do any of you know of an old 1967 shelby GT 500 mustang for sale? at least just the body, frame and engine?
ok ive been searching everywhere for a shelby GT its my favorite car and im willing to do work on it if its rusted or something i just want a cheap car thats not messed up too bad. so i can fix it and have my favorite car in the whole world lol. so i need your help can you help me?
i was accually thinking of an old one like rusted and everything so i can make it a project so i can work on it myself….not a full car lol mainly the body and partly an engine….i want to work on it not drive it til im done thats what im looking for. i found a body here in my town that was all rusted and stuff for $600 but the day i went to get it they sold it before i got there.

A: The chances of that happening is very slim, the type of money those things are worth when they are restored has everyone looking. If you are looking to something like this to drive on the street, get a regular 67 (if you can find it), and, put reproduction parts on it and turn it in to a Shelby.

Q: Is a 1967 Mustang coupe a good car?
I found a 1967 mustang coupe for sale for $4500. I was wondering if that is a good car? I love working on cars. granted I’m a devoted Chevy guy i still love the mustangs. I had a 1966 Chevy II 4 door sedan before and because I was stupid didn’t know what I was doing bought it not knowing it wasn’t a very like car. at least the 4 doors. so I don’t want to make that mistake again.

thank you all very much for answering.

A: You should also consider that such a car may be expensive to insure. Check your insurance rates before buying one, for example here – carinsurance.deep-ice.com

Q: where can i find a 1967 ford mustang gt 500 eleanor for sale at a lower price?
the cheapest one i found was $125000 if any one knows were i can find one please reply

A: well that all depends on if you want a real ‘67 Shelby or a remake you can probably find a ‘67 fastback mustang and get the eleanor body kit for it and order a 428 cobra jet from ford and you will be on your way. however and all original Ford Shelby GT500KR can go for over 200k so its your choice

Q: 1967 mustang please read detalis?
hi, i found a 67 mustang for sale, the ad said that the gears of been changed out to a lower ratio for more power. it has been set up for racing. then the part i don’t understand, it said it has a bump shifter installed, i don’t know what this is? what is a bump shifter (the car is an automatic) please help

A: It means that the car is an automatic, but has a manual valve body installed in it. The valve body is a set of passages in the transmission that change the gears by releasing the clutch pack when hydraulic pressure passes through them. A “manual” valve body is just that- you have to engage a mechanical switch to change gears. Thats where the bump shifter fits in. The shifter should have a spring loaded, ratcheting type of action that will pull on a cable connected to the transmission. Push the shifter forward you upshift, backwards you downshift. A properly built automatic transmission with a manual valve body will shift faster than having a standard manual and thats why they’re popular in drag racing. If the car’s got lower gears and a bump shifter, it’s been raced and probably gotten the crap beaten out of it. You might wanna look for something else, something close to stock or all stock. A used car is already someone else’s problem.

Q: 1967 Mustang, should I buy?
I found a ‘67 V6 Mustang for sale for $4,500. Interior fully restored, all original, 107,000 miles, automatic, runs, and needs new paint, should I buy? Could it be a primary car for me to use and be reliable?

A: i would tell you no.
because of this:
the car will get bad gas mileage since its an older car, and gas prices will be getting more expensive.
i suggest getting a small compact car, you will be better off financially… but if you got free gas for the rest of your life, go for it!

Q: how to report what I think is possible fraud?
Not sure who to send this to so figured I’d start with you.

2weeks ago in the Niagara Gazette we called about an ad for a 1967 Mustang for sale by emailing the person. After two weeks of emailing back and forth, we are convinced this is a scam. The car was for only $4,000 and we could buy it by sending money through Yahoo! Finance. We’ve emailed back and forth and received lots of pictures (great looking car). We’ve asked him/her to call but came up with the reason that they were in Iraq last year and now couldn’t hear very well. We said we wanted the car so he/she said that Yahoo! Finance would contact us immediately. Well, they did the next day but in the “paperwork” they listed a 1998 Toyota as the deal. I wrote the person back and told them about that mistake and it was immediately corrected. Hmmm When I emailed yesterday to have him/her send a copy of the vehicle title, he/she couldn’t because it was already crated to be sent to us. (We went along with him/her too to see how far it would go.) The $4,000 included shipping costs too! Nobody sells a 1967 Mustang that looks perfect for $4,000. When they involved Yahoo! Finance in the “deal” I thought Yahoo should be notified but not sure how.

As the saying goes, “If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.”
Thanks for listening.

A: I went thru the same deal with a crook pretending he was going through a divorce and was selling a Lexus 330 for $6.000. All I had to do was to send him $2.000 deposit via an escrow account he was going to set up and the car will be delivered to me in 2 days. I made up an address and told him that I attached the money with my email so he could get it faster.
I never heard from him again.

Buyers beware!

Q: Why is the 1967 Mustang fastback so popular on ebay?
i see these nasty 1967 mustang fastbacks on ebay and i specifically saw one that had 18 bids and it was already up to $18,000 the car didnt even have an engine. why is this car such a popular project car?

I have a 1967 Mustang Coupe in great running condition for sale on ebay too haha

A: Cuz 67 fastbacks are so damn good looking.

Q: 1967 Gt500 Elanor Mustang ?
Okay so i was looking online for a mustang to buy .
I came across a ad that said 1967 Ford Mustang Fastback Eleanor GT500 Shelby for sale . The price is $5000 Can . I e-mailed the owner and she said shipping and handling is included in the cost . She only wants to make the deal through ebay . Does this seem like a scam ?

She says the car is in perfect shape and is a 6.7 liter v8
sorry i spelt it wrong eleanor

you never heard of them ? They are just like another brand of mustang , like roush or saleen etc .
they look like this

http://www.fquick.com/images/articles/19381.jpg

and the newer ones look like this

http://media.photobucket.com/image/eleanor%20mustang/A_major_Gamer/Cars/eleanor_conv_01.jpg

A: SCAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! anytime the seller sells something way to good to be true it normally is. They always say there not around and on a work trip and shippings already paid for is so they will ship it to you. They wont give you the vin number or give you a false one, they wont let you see it cause its “locked” in a crate. Again SCAM!! stay away.

Also REPORT them to ebay and get there account banned.

Q: Classic Ford Mustang Time Commitment?
I’ve been looking to buy a 1964-1967 Mustang. I see several for sale ads stating that the seller no longer has the time to work on the car. How much time should I expect to “work” on the car? What kind of “work” should I expect to do? Thanks!
To clarify, I am not asking how much time I should expect to work on a specific car. My question is how much should I expect to work on a classic Ford Mustang generally to keep it in good shape. I assume that since multiple sellers are selling because they don’t have time to devote to the car, the time commitment would be much more than for my current 2002 model vehicle, which is basically minimal to none. Thanks!

A: Well, it depends on several things:

1.) First, how far do you want to go with the restoration? There is a huge difference in time and money to make a “rough but running” car a “daily driver” vs. a “20-footer” vs. a “true show car.” Depending on the model, there’s a practical limit to what this car is going to be worth (at each of these restoration tiers) when you’re done.

2.) How much rust? If this is surface rust without rot or perforation, a good prep and repaint will do the trick. Pay careful attention to the floorboards (front and rear), the lower lips on the fenders, the lower door edges, the rocker panels and the front and rear fascia under the bumpers. Check underneath, too (exhaust, brake & suspension components & associated mounting points).

3.) Are the engine, transmission and driveline sound? If so, do you intend to keep them stock?

4.) How much work on the inside? Specifically, are the gauges, radio, heater/vent controls, etc. present and working? Glass? Weatherstrips? What needs to be done?

5.) Apart from restoration, how much regular maintenance or mechanical repair needs to be done? Brakes? Wheels/Tires? Craigslist can be your friend for upgraded wheels/tires.

The good news is that, given the popularity of early Mustangs, there are numerous sources for Mustang restoration and performance parts. Start with your local wrecking yard / auto recycler, move on to J C Whitney for general stuff, then to any of the myriad Mustang performance / enthusiast sites on the web.

If you are a decent mechanic and can do paint prep properly, you can cut your costs considerably on a project like this. Years ago, I bought and restored a ‘63 Falcon (from “rough but running” to “20-footer” status) with my father-in-law. It took 2 years of on-and-off weekend work, lots of trips to the wrecking yard and research in mail-order catalogs and about $3,000, but it was one of the best things we’ve ever done together.

Good luck!

RESPONSE TO YOUR FOLLOW-UP:

I suspect your sellers are referring to the restoration “work” still to be done, rather than routine maintenance. Following restoration, these cars are really pretty trouble-free. Here’s a few thoughts, based on my own experiences (see end of my original post above):

You will need to do oil and filter changes every 3,000 miles (which, BTW, you ought to be doing on your 2002 model as well – check the “harsh conditions” service interval recommendations – you’re likely unwittingly driving under “harsh conditions” as defined).

Because you’re working with a carbureted / mechanical ignition system on a 64-67, you will need more frequent and extensive tune-ups than with fuel injection and electronic ignition – including periodic adjustment / replacement of plugs, points, condenser and replacement of cap and rotor – every second year or so. You can mitigate this by retrofitting an aftermarket electronic ignition system – many offerings are available for the Mustang.

Some suspension components which are “factory sealed” or not serviceable on newer models have zerk fittings and are meant to be serviced as part of routine oil changes / lubes.

Older transmissions, power steering pumps/boxes, water pumps, alternators, etc. don’t really require more service by design, but you should make an effort keep fluids changed and things adjusted in view of the age of these components.

This is the sort of required / preventive maintenance you’d expect with any vehicle of this age, though.

Again, good luck! Sounds like a fun project!

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